First up M6992:
I finished this last fall and it's been in rotation since. The main body fabric is a used scuba knit from fabric.com. My first time using it and I had no problems with the serger or coverstitch. The black knit I had in my stash and came in one of the bins I picked up from Kelli of True Bias before she and her family moved to New York. I thought I had posted pics after picking up the bins, but couldn't find them in my quick search of posts. It's very light weight but works great with the pattern. At size 10, I can't layer, so would need to sew a bigger size if I thought that I wanted that ability. I increased the size to 12 at the hips and added my usual swayback adjustment.
The fit of the sweatshirt is great out of the envelope for me and I'm happy to have a garment that is know and doesn't need a lot of figure adjustments. I will sew this again and have a different sweatshirt knit fabric waiting for the next version.
Next up S1279
My first stab at this post focused too much on the negative. I would rather focus on the good that took place during the process and then my lessons learned for the future.
The shirt is in a regular wardrobe rotation, so it was worth the time and slow sewing. This fabric has been waiting while I've ruminated over patterns for too long. Voile is a great shirt fabric and I like Anna Marie Horner's lines for this fabric.
Thought out and Carried out
Snaps - I finally bought the SnapSetter system and used matte black 16 inch snaps. Shirts with snaps are more fun and there will be more! I'm also excited that the selection of snap colors is very broad.
Sleeve placket - I used Pam's Erny's tutorial and this is lovely. Such a nicer finish than my usual end result with the single piece of fabric over the slit. Also, finger pressing rocks! I created pattern templates for future shirts.
Collar Assembly - I followed the steps from Louise Cutting's "Precision Collar Band" in Threads June/July 2014. In the midst of the process I felt annoyed at various processes, but my collar looks so fabulous and it's all sewn by machine. I'm committed to work the process again.
My Cautions
There is a huge amount of sleeve fabric. It doesn't feel too big when I where it, but I can see it in these photos.
The cuffs are another story. By the time I realized how large the cuff was, I was too far into the process to change them or just to lazy to decrease them. Finished cuff size is 11 1/8 inches compared to my wrist of 6 inches (granted my wrists are pretty small). With snap placement and an overlap I was able to widdle down the cuff size to 10 inches. Still too large for my taste, but I can live with it for this shirt. Now I will remember to always measure the cuffs too. Just another lesson on this sewing journey.
Also the pattern doesn't provide provide the measurements at the hip. Not on either the pattern envelope or the pattern piece. I had to decrease my seam allowance at the hips to allow for a better fit. I sewed a size 10 and should have increased to a 12 at the bottom as is my usual approach to tops.
With this large of a flower pattern I could have benefited from pattern matching across the front, but I didn't have enough fabric to accomplish for this shirt. In the future, should I go for large and obvious blooms I'll know to order extra fabric. I really don't mind the mismatch and my friends who don't sew probably wouldn't know what I was talking about!
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